It's lovely and hot here. Proper english summer. Hot enough to melt wax, in fact:
No work is happening on the car.
Restoration of my 1970 Porsche 911S.
It's lovely and hot here. Proper english summer. Hot enough to melt wax, in fact:
No work is happening on the car.
A little trial fit of the front mounted oil cooler, the hard lines in the wheel arch, and the flexible lines that connect to the cooler.
On the other side of the engine bay, the oil tank is in and I have plumbed in the plumbing. So the oil console / thermostat / filter base is mounted, and I have connected it up to the fore-aft oil pipes that run through the sills to the front cooler:
The fuel system is now pretty-much finished.
For those who say they unwisely use my pics as reference, please note there is a deliberate mistake here. I do know that the outlet from the fuel filter is currently connected straight back to the return, rather than to the MFI pump (which I understand is the conventional scheme for those who like their engine to receive fuel). Before the engine goes in I will test it like this, just recirculating, to see if we have any leaks.
I've also got the engine tinware seal in (the one that goes around the perimeter of the engine compartment). Like all jobs involving rubbery bits, installing it was no fun at all. But I do quite like the cute little hole in the (Genuine Porsche) seal, for the fuel pipe - very neat and tidy.
With this scheme of employing professionals, it turns out I can sit in the garden drinking wine and work still happens on the car.
Don't know why I didn't think of this before.
Just for a few days, I’ve handed over to the professionals. When it gets back, the car will have dash, screens and headlining installed. Amateur hour will then resume.
Because I'm a genius, unlike those Porsche engineers, I've decided I can do better than them in a couple of areas.
Hence the non-standard cables highlighted below:
The lower one in the pic is for the throttle.
I'm not a massive fan of the standard throttle linkage on a '70 car. It's an awful lot of parts to do a simple job:
Plenty to go wrong, in an area where going wrong can have unhappy consequences.
This thread on Pelican suggested an alternative scheme: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/309504-early-911-replacing-throttle-linkage-morse-cable.html
All the missing bits in this version of the diagram are replaced by a "Morse" cable:
In my case the specific type of cable I have used is called a Teleflex TFXTreme. Most commonly used on powerboats, I believe, and available from your friendly local yacht chandlery. Incidentally in buying these it turns out that, although Yacht Tax seems to exist, it's nowhere near as ridiculous as Porsche Tax.
Anyway.... this sort of thing:
The advantages of this type are high quality materials (corrosion resistant) and, importantly, small bend radius - nominal spec is 100mm minimum, but (in new-out-of-the-box state anyway) they remain smooth well beyond that spec. Point is they are flexible enough to easily make the control run for the throttle.
Final note - obvs my genius statement is slightly tongue in cheek. In fact Porsche changed the design later on, to get rid of all that bell-crank on the side of the gearbox nonsense. So a 964 has a cable run fairly similar to mine (but less flashy cable).
Per the pics, the various fuel lines, brake lines, cables and electrical bits at the back end, and through the tunnel, are done.
They make the nice clean shell look really untidy.
I think my next resto might focus only on being nice to look at, so I can get rid of most of this clutter.
Oil and Fuel system refurbs are in progress. For the oil lines, the original fittings are all fine, and I think look much better than modern crimped versions. The old fittings are easy to work with and reuse. So what we see below is:
Moving on to the oil system, I've made a start on cleaning up the oil tank.
Turns out it's copper plated, which I dimly knew was sometimes done, but thought it only applied to special cars like RSRs.
The tank is now away being stripped, acid dipped and copper plated.
The strip and dip will make me feel more comfortable connecting this thing directly to my newly-rebuilt engine - need to be rid of any crud and rust. I will admit that the copper part is completely pointless overkill, given that it will be obscured by some black paint. But I will know it's copper plated under there, and maybe one day a bit of paint will rub off and (if I have my head under the rear wheel arch for some reason) I will feel like a restoration genius. Not like a weirdo at all.
Electrics, other than the engine bay loom, are fitted and tested:
And overall it's starting to look a bit more like a car, and a bit less like a bare shell:
I've made modest progress on the suspension and brakes. They are "nearly" done.
Being RHD there are hard lines across the luggage compartment from the reservoir, which then join to the master cylinder via some short soft lines and kinked hard lines, behind the pedal box. A bit convoluted.
In summary most of this lot is now on the car. With the predictable side effect that it is no longer cluttering up every shelf in my garage / shed / house. Feels like progress.
After some rock & roll excitement from the 1970s, back in 2018 we turn our minds to something a little more prosaic.
Today, I have mostly been making brake lines.
This may seem unnecessarily masochistic, when pre-bent kits are available from various places. I went DIY partly for entertainment value - pipe bending is another curiously satisfying pastime, and there's the extra fun of brake pedal roulette when it's time to use them.
The other reason was material choice. Pre-made pipes seem to be either mild steel (plain or coated), copper or kunifer (copper-nickel alloy). I'll admit that kunifer is probably the best stuff for the job, but without wishing to offend anyone who is using this excellent material, to me it looks wrong on an early car.
So I've gone with annealed stainless steel, which is also wrong, but looks a bit less offensive to my delicate eyes. It's not bad at all to work with, although a bit tougher than kunifer.
More lovely fresh painted / plated / otherwise refurbished bits ready to bolt on. Fenn Lane Motorport did most of the refurbishment here. They are particularly good at steering racks, but the suspension parts have also turned out very nicely. Thanks Chris et al!
Here's the rufurbished pedal cluster. Being RHD it has some slightly weird and wonderful extension rods, to bridge the gap from the accelerator and clutch pedals to the centre tunnel (much simpler in the LHD version).
As well as the plating and paint, it has new bushes and springs. Chris at Fenn Lane Motorsport makes them (including the NLA RHD clutch helper spring). So this is the first of probably many opportunities for me to say "thanks" to Chris.
Just for fun I'll bung in a link...
... but it's possible that the website will still be under construction.
You may be thinking "I didn't know Chris was making those". It's additionally possible that I will mention a few more things you didn't know he makes. Lots of engineering at Fenn Lane, not so much marketing.
Anyway, let's have some pedal photos:
As you know, the MFI pump has a solenoid which operates a fuel cut off. The principle is that, on a trailing throttle at higher revs, the unit stops pumping fuel into the engine. Anyone who has followed an MFI car on which it's not working (fairly common fault) will recognise the bangs, pops and occasional flames. Quite cool, but not especially good for the engine.
One component of the system is the "speed switch", which detects when the revs are above approx 1500 rpm. Above that level, when the throttle closes (detected by a microswitch), the MFI solenoid should energise and the fuel shut off. On the way back down the revs, below 1300 rpm the solenoid needs to de-energise to resume fuelling and prevent the engine from stalling.
The CDI+ unit from Classic Retrofit offers a (programmable) replacement for the speed switch.
There's a wire coming out of the CDI+ box:
Which needs to be connected to the microswitch + solenoid via a 40A relay, thus:
40A relays are readily available. Mine is a little grey Hella one which should really live in a Skoda:
I know what you're thinking, that looks crap and why did you choose that ugly relay? Answer: because it fits into an old speed switch case. Stealthy:
Output programmable via the CDI+ software:
I've tested the microswitch and solenoid, all fine, so I reckon we should be in good shape for working fuel cut-off.
It's all plug and play, no butchering of the loom required, so could easily revert. Thanks to Jonny (DDK-er and owner of Classic Retrofit who make the CDI+) for the help and exemplary technical support.
And that, in a nutshell, is the kind of mod I'm doing. Criteria:
The next part of the electrical sort-out was the panel in the engine bay. The one with the CDI box, rectifier, couple of relays, "speed switch" etc.
Here's what came with the car:
Today it looks like this, which is quite nice but not the interesting part....
The interesting (to me) part is that I'm using a CDI+ box, having enjoyed good results with the one in my 69 car. The CDI+ is a CDI box replacement from www.classicretrofit.com; modern digital electronics and programmable ignition curve. I went for the Stealth version, built into a Bosch original case. I'm going a step further this time and locking the distributor, so the CDI+ is responsible for the advance curve.
For my car, the distributor is a Bosch 007. Standard advance curve for that is:
It's pretty easy to get the same curve into CDI+, as a starting point:
Please ignore the deliberate mistake - I've gone beyond the available adjust room for the amount of initial physical advance (hence my curve goes into the red area of the graph). I took the screenshot before I'd finished fiddling about.
Note also a few useful bells and whistles. On my other car I particularly like the soft limiter - much more civilised than the all-or-nothing mechanical limiter (spring in the rotor arm).
Next, a slightly strange job on the dashboard.
RHD dashes of correct quality were / are not available, so mine is being refurbished by the incomparable Garry at Classic FX
It seemed salvageable, the main problem being that the speaker hole had been filled in. It looked as if a previous owner had it reworked by a company that uses vacuum-forming type techniques to attach the vinyl - the many small holes are the clue.
Garry was not overly keen to make a hole that I (already earmarked as an annoyingly picky customer, for some reason ...) might suggest was half a millimetre out of position and throw a hissy fit. So he kindly let me take some measurements from another dash, following which I measured many times, cut once, and ended up with a hole that seems to fit my nice original speaker grille. Dremel with router bit was the tool of choice.
After which my dash went off to be re-covered. Here are a couple of pics of the finished article.
With many thanks to Garry.
There's not been much progress, but I have spent many a happy hour sorting out the wiring loom.
The car's original loom was included when I bought it. Looked like this:
There were various hacks and bodges, with the fuse panel area being particularly hideous. The original fuse banks had been replaced with blade fuses, in a slightly agricultural style:
This might not be everyone's idea of fun, but I've found it immensely satisfying to faff about very slowly at my workbench sorting it all out.
The front loom is now done, including a bench test with switches, headlights, indicators, wiper motor, heater fan etc attached.